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FIG. 14
TROUT · NO. 010
FIELD STUDY · 14·

The print you can't feel

Most chest prints are plastisol — a plastic layer cured onto the shirt that keeps cracking as the cotton moves under it. A note on why we lay every mark down in water-based ink instead, what it means for a print you can't feel the edge of, and the one thing the soft way gives up.

You already know what most chest prints feel like, because your hand has found the edge of one. A tee comes out of the drawer & there's a slightly stiff rectangle over the heart — a shape with a border, a patch you can feel through the cotton, a little warmer in summer than the cloth around it. The old ones crack. The lettering on a decade-old band tee splits into a dry riverbed & flakes at the folds. That raised, faintly rubbery print is the default the whole industry runs on, and it has a name: plastisol.

Plastisol is pigment suspended in a PVC & plasticizer base — a soft plastic, essentially — screen-printed onto the cloth as a layer & cured hard under heat. Shops run it for good reasons: it's cheap at volume, it's loud, it sits opaque on any colour of shirt including black, and it forgives a lot. The catch is in the physics. It doesn't dye the shirt; it sits on top of the shirt as a film, and a film & a fabric age at different rates. The cotton keeps flexing every time you move & every time it's washed; the plastic on top eventually stops flexing with it. That's the crack. That's the peel. The print was never part of the shirt — it was a sticker cured on, and the shirt was always going to outlive the bond.

We don't print that way. Every lampfern mark is laid down in water-based ink by a direct-to-garment press — the pigment is carried in water, the water sinks it down into the combed ring-spun fibres, and in the cure the water leaves while the colour stays behind in the thread. There's no film, because there's no plastic. Put your palm flat on the mark & you won't find its edge; the ink is in the cloth the way dye is in the cloth, not on it the way a label is on it. It breathes where the cotton breathes. It doesn't trap summer heat in a rectangle. And it can't crack off a shirt it was never sitting on top of.

Water-based has a cost & we'd rather name it than dress it up. It's fussier to run, and it wants a combed ring-spun cotton to sink into cleanly — which is one more reason we press on the soft 142 gsm jersey & not a cheaper open-weave blank. It can't do the neon-opaque, screen-print-poster look; the colour settles with the cloth instead of shouting off it. And it ages differently — not by cracking away from the shirt, but by softening & fading a half-step with everything around it, the way a well-worn tee is supposed to. Some people want the loud plastic patch. This isn't the print for them. It's the print for the tee you forget you're wearing.

Underneath, the order is the same short set of decisions as any lampfern tee. One of the twelve marks. A headline of twenty-eight characters or fewer in one of four faces, the small true caption beneath it, one of four inks on one of four grounds — sixteen pairings, every one looked at on cloth before it shipped. S through 2XL, CAD $42. Nothing exists until you decide it does: within 48 hours of checkout the design goes to a press in your own country — Canadian orders pressed in Canada, US orders in the US — and most arrive, tracked, in 5–9 business days. And every tee pressed this way leaves a second record — a numbered collector card, the Nth print of that mark in the library's history, rendered with your exact design & kept at a permanent URL. The ink sinks into the cloth; the card holds the number. Two ways of saying the same thing lasted.

Trout heads this study on purpose. It's NO. 010 in the library of twelve — a clean fish silhouette with a split tail, drawn as one filled path, no eye, because a dark dot fought the mid-tone grounds & the shape reads truer without it. And a brook trout is the whole argument in one animal: its colour isn't painted on, it's carried in — the reds & the pale haloes are bound into the skin, vivid from the inside, and they don't flake off when the fish flexes up a rapid. That's the entire difference between a print that sits on a shirt & a print that's part of one. Pick the mark, write the line, choose the ink — and wear a mark that's in the cloth, not stuck to it.

The trout mark also anchors our full collection

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